Thursday, August 29, 2019

One Beautiful Place

“Hey, you can see Puerto Rico.” Of course, any of us who weren’t working or standing watch headed for the foc’sle, forward on the starboard as per Navy rules. When we arrived, it was true. There in the distance was the faintest blue-gray outline of an island, only a miniscule tad darker than the sky. How did those earlier mariners locate such a dim spot in this vast ocean, using only dead-reckoning along with the skills and intuitions gained from a lifetime at sea? I could only wonder.

Back at our home port, I coxswained “The Admiral’s Barge,” so at sea, they left me pretty much alone. I was all set to enjoy three days of liberty on this fabled island. I can’t help thinking about it today. I wasn’t on a fast ship, nor was I going “in harm’s way,” well not really. They told us which parts of San Juan not to enter. That was simply a challenge to some sailors and they paid the price for it—and not in John Paul Jones style.

I knew we weren’t “in Kansas” when the tugs snugged us against the pier. I joined in the fun. It was bit of a different experience for our merry band of bosun’s mates. We normally employed what they called a “Med Moor” from the practice of tying ships up ass-end, oops stern-end, to the dock so as to allow more ships in the crowded ports of the Mediterranean. Pulling alongside a waiting pier was a gracious way to enter a strange port. We all felt so.

The young boys sitting on the docks, their legs dangling over toward the water didn’t agree. Each had a brown paper bag from which he took deep breaths, tapping on the bottom of the bags to help expel the fumes of airplane glue. They gazed with stoney, dreamy, faces and paid us no attention until an ensign, probably an Annapolis man, yelled for them to “get away from the dock.” Extended fingers shot up in the universal sign of disrespect. The hands went back to tapping the sacks. The ensign went back to whatever it is that ensigns do. Young boys claimed that spot for our entire stay, coming and going as if in shifts. I don’t think the beauty of that island dominated their dreams.

Meanwhile, we “hit the Beach” and had a grand time. We explored the old fortresses that once guarded the island from pirates, the English, and other dangers. We experienced food and drink. We strolled the beaches, much to the disgust of the young folks. Some things never changed back then from place to place.

Some shipmates and I signed up for a trip to the rain forest. One of my memories is of the ride there in a converted school bus. I held my head in place against the window and watched the scenes roll by. The highway ran along a wide strip of land bordering, in most places, the sea. The scene changed from monumental masonry walls, whitewashed and bordering immaculate golf courses, to long stretches of cardboard shacks, hardly fit for human habitation. There wasn’t much in between.

I’ve been thinking also lately of my glimpse of the rain forest. What a heavenly place. What a blessed spot of Earth’s serenity. What kind of riches must be in store, at least in the mind, for those who would destroy such a place, one provided by nature, or God—take your pick, for us puny homo sapiens.

It was a grand trip and still provides me happy memories. If some natives proved a bit surly, it was understandable. They didn’t dislike us any more, maybe a bit less, than our own folks back home, especially in our home port of Charleston. Further, they were sorta Americans, sorta not. We fell somewhere between the extremes along the scale of their allegiances. That was no surprise.

I think the Galilean would have us love the people of Puerto Rico. Why our president doesn’t remains a secret with which his own heart must deal. We are fortunate in that we don’t have to share his demons. So, goodbye and good luck, Puerto Rico. Best wishes to a beautiful place.

Farewell wondrous island.


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